This article is to help out with the troubleshooting of the ETCS-i (Electronic Throttle Control System intelligence)also otherwise known as the DBW (Drive By Wire) system found on the 2JZ GE and GTE VVTi, this article is aimed at the supra but may also to apply to the JZS161 Aristo or any other ETCS-i equipped Toyota/Lexus vehicle.
Over the years I have had numerous emails, messages and help requested on forums on this subject, so I thought it was time for a troubleshooting article to assist others in resolving the issues that can potentially occur with the system.
The 2JZ VVTi has the original 1st generation ETCS-i link type system that includes a throttle cable in the system unlike the 2nd generation link-less type system doesn’t have a throttle cable. This article is by no means a full technical run down of the complete system as there are plenty of handy articles out there explaining it and how it works, but to help troubleshooting issues I have put a summary below of what it does based on some research of the system.
Operation;
- The throttle motor operates the throttle valve.
- An electromagnetic clutch connects the throttle motor to the throttle valve.
- The throttle position sensor detects throttle valve angle.
- The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) detects accelerator pedal position.
- The throttle lever is connected by cable to the accelerator pedal.
- As the driver moves the accelerator pedal, the APPS signal voltage changes indicating a new pedal position.
- The ECM then adjusts the throttle angle based on the APPS signals, engine conditions and vehicle conditions.
Fail Safe Mode (Limp mode):
- If an abnormal condition occurs with the ETCS-i, the MIL will illuminate to alert the driver.
- At the same time, current to the throttle control motor and magnetic clutch are cut off.
- With no power to the motor or magnetic clutch, the return spring closes the throttle valve to the default position.
- In this situation, called limp mode, the accelerator pedal operates the limp mode lever.
- When in limp mode, the throttle can only be partially opened reducing engine power.
- The driver will notice the pedal travel is longer in relation to engine response and that the MIL is on.
- Furthermore, ISC and cruise control systems will not operate
Some of the issues that may occur;
- Idling issues (Erratic or low/high)
- While driving only receiving a certain amount of throttle percentage.
- Car won’t start/or dies straight away
Troubleshooting;
- Always check for other problems such as basic fuel and ignition troubleshooting, reset ECU (Disconnect ground to battery or pull EFI fuses), air flow meter is plugged in (can unplug to test to see if you have the same issues), there are no vacuum leaks and any other changes or modifications that could of caused the issue are looked at
- Try reset the ETCS-i system – Turn the key to the “ON” position but don’t turn over the car, put your foot completely down on the throttle “Gas” pedal for 30 seconds, you should hear a beeping/humming sound while the ETCS-i system resets, turn the ignition to “Off”. Now turn the car back over and re-test to see if you have any symptoms.
- Ensure the ETCS-i system has 12v+ Fusebox and wiring. There are common issues when people swap engines from NA – TT and they forget to wire up the 12v+ wire to the ETCS-i system and put in a 15amp fuse.
- The fusebox ETCS-i pin1 goes to the shared 12v (Shared 12v within fuse box for all fuses) – ETCS-i 15amp fuse
- The fusebox ETCS-i pin2 goes to one of the plugs under the fuse box (BA2 5 pin connector which is the Blue-Red wire) engine loom connector – which then goes straight to the ECU (Block B78 (C) – Pin 7 +BM)
- Picture below of custom wiring to connector under fuse box on my conversion
- The following tests can be performed to ensure the health of the TCM (Throttle Control Motor), TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor)
- NOTE – All voltage and resistance values are from the 2JZGE VVTi but should be the same for the 2JZGTE VVTi, I can’t confirm this for sure but it’s the same system and should use the same sensors, also the pictures in the diagrams my differ slightly due to the different designs of the throttle body locations
- Throttle control motor –
- Resistance between terminal 3 (CL-) and 4 (CL+) – 4.2 – 5.2 W at 20°C (68°F)
- Resistance between terminal 1 (M+) and 2 (M-) – 0.3 – 100 W at 20°C (68°F)
- Throttle Position Sensor –
- Resistance between terminals VC and E2 – 1.2 – 3.2 kW at 20°C (68°F)
- TPS Voltage – 0.3-0.9 volts (Idle), 3.5-4.7 volts (WOT)
- Check connector at VC from ECM of around 5 volts to ensure wiring is correct
- Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor –
- Resistance between terminals VC and E2 – 1.2 – 3.2 kW at 20°C (68°F)
- Voltage – 0.3 – 0.9 volts (idle)
- Check connector at VC from ECM of around 5 volts to ensure wiring is correct
- Mechanical fault – The throttle valve in the throttle body could be jammed or have an obstruction, ensure its cleaned out with carb cleaner or degreaser
- Idle adjustment nuts – Don’t touch this as the idle should not need to be adjusted because it’s all controlled by the ECM, if you do make changes the ECM will adjust as required but you can test it though for fine adjustment (Think there is 1 nut on top and 1 below the throttle)
Some pictures of the 2JZGTE VVTi ETCS-i below;
Hopefully this article helps you for any ETCS-i issues, if you have any further troubleshooting information to add then please let me know by commenting below
66 thoughts on “ETCS-i / DBW System Troubleshooting”
Hey,
I have a 1jz vvti with etcs-i, are there ant throttle conversion kits out there which could help me get rid of poor response of the throttle. My throtlle drops from 100% in first gear to 60% in second gear. I hearedof the one of premium japan any other out there.
Gr.
Hi,
The only one I’ve came across in my travels is the Premium Japan one you mentioned, other than that you would need to swap to early model one with aftermarket ECU setup.
Hi I’m a mechanic and have a 98 Lexus gs 300 that was brought to me not running. When you turn the key it turns over and sometimes acts as if it is going to start but never does. Before when the key was on the throttle motor would buzz constant now it has stop when the key is first turned on it gets power for just a second and then it stops. If you operate the throttle the motor makes no noise at all. The car is getting fuel and spark so I’m all most sure its an air issue. If you could maybe givee a nudge in the right direction I’d be very greatful
Hi,
This potentially sounds like a problem with supplying 12v+ constant power to the ETCS-i system, test the ignition to the “on” position and apply throttle to see if the throttle motor is buzzing when you apply the throttle (via the throttle body). If it’s not buzzing then you will need to check the ETCS-i fuses and wiring and test the throttle motor as outlined in the article.
Also I’d remove the negative battery for 2-3 mins before testing.
Hi, my name is Rémi. I’m from France and i have a is300 sportcross with a cxracing turbo kit. I’ve unscrew the two throttle adjusting Bolt for polish the throttle body but now the Check light is on ,i’ve a Brad idlle,half throttle response and i’ve the P1128 trouble code. I’ve try to adjust the TPS but … It’s always ont good. Is someone know how to adjust this two bolts ? Thanks and scuze me for my english….
Hi Remi,
Not a problem, I hope this helps!
The throttle adjustment screws can easily throw the CEL light. Start with putting the TPS back to it’s original position, then you will need to use a voltage meter to get the reading of the TPS voltages with the car set to IGN “On” but not running. You will then need to adjust the screws by small amounts clockwise “in” until the voltages match those specified below.
Also check out the SFI part of the IS300 service manual for adjustment steps.
Here are some voltages I have found from the IS forums;
Between VTA and E2(ground) 0.65vdc@ignition on/car not running
Between VTA2 and E2(ground) 2.39vdc@ignition on/car not running
Other info
Between VTA and VTA2 1.75vdc@idle
Between VC and VTA2 1.75vdc@idle
Between VC and VTA 4.33vdc@idle
Wire identification-
Brown-E2(ground)
Blue w/yellow stripe-VC
white w/red stripe-VTA
Green w/yellow stripe-VTA2
@68*F accross terminals VC and VTA2, you should have a resistance of 1.2K-3.2K ohms
i read that you said etcs-i pin 1 and pin2?? i looked at wilbo666’s diagrams and only see one pin that needs 12volts at all times with a 15 amp fuse and thats pin 7 on the F60 ecu connector. what other etcs-i pin are you referring to??? i think this may be the answer to my car’s limp mode issue
Hi mate,
When I say ETCS-i Pin 1 and Pin 2 I’m referring to the fuse pins. So Pin 1 is the direct feed into 12v with the 15amp fuse which is shared power to the fuse box. Pin 2 connects to the BA2 5 pin connector which is the Blue-Red wire, then as you mentioned it then goes to the ECU (Pin 7 +BM), which is on the block C connector of the ECU. Some diagrams have different names, mine are named as Block B78 (C) (Not F60).
I’ve updated the post to make this more clear for everyone.
Hi Jef , In case if i want to get manual transmission into my car , do ETCS-i and a/t ECU work fine with m/t ? if i want to change ETCS-i to supra TRC and make it fully mechanical do i get limp mode ? do i need to do any modification or replace other parts too ?
I do not know that a manual trans with a auto ECU would even work, but I could be wrong. But as far as the ETCS-i to TRC swap you mentioned, I am leaning towards that it would be a larger headache than needed. Yes you would have the full throttle control as the electronics would be eliminated and it would be all mechanical. That being said, if you kept the ECU that was meant for ETCS-i, the ECU will notice the lack of signals from the electronic throttle and will likely hinder the engine’s performance anyway and throw a check engine light as if it were in limp mode, just not with a throttle hinderance. I could be wrong in this train of thinking, but something tells me doing something like that will just lead to headaches and frustration.
Yes, swapping to manual you can still run the auto ECU. Only thing is the ECT light and check engine light will come on. Only way I know how to fix that is run a piggyback or full aftermarket ECU. Then you could override it. HKS FCON SV, Haltech, AEM v2 or v3 dont rem will override it. The SUPRA ecu will cause more issues as there are different options. Another option is if you have a 2JGTE is swap the wiring harness to a 2JZGTE non vvti or 1J harness and run a power FC but will limit some functions as well. For now the check engine light and ect light doesnt bother me. Drives better than stock and more fun, other than that.
Would you know if you can convert to mechanical throttle control, and still use the factory ecu? Does the ecu, in throttle “limp mode” alter or switch fuel maps? I have managed to modify my etcs system, therefore the factory acc sensor, motor/clutch , and tps are still connected. Gears removed. Once boost kicks in, feels as is the ecu powers down and then engine has to be restarted. (not fuel cut)
any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Hi Aaron,
I have heard of a VVTi DBW override kit which is what you would be looking for – https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=30&v=vUFxl9f9X88. Limp mode with limit your throttle via disabling the throttle control motor and magnetic clutch, it won’t alter fuel maps. With the kit you should be able to keep all the other stock components without hitting limp mode or having power issues. This is probably the best work-around without aftermarket ECU or IACV with non-vvti throttle setup (using aftermarket ECU).
Hi i have an TT Supra vvti that keeps going into limp mode giving you only half throttle,now eml light comes and i can not get any communication at the 16 pin obd plug as there is no power,i have checked the etcs and values as per spec and thats all good.
Is there any ideas why i have no power at obd plug and is there any other way of code reading.
just need to talk to it!
regards
Hi,
Did you end up sorting this out? Seems like a sensor issue from somewhere else that is putting it into limp mode. Are you getting 12v to the throttle motor from the pin? Can you hear the motor when car is set to “ON” but not turned over? What scanning tool are you using? As far as I’m aware Pin 16 should have 12v+ power, I can’t remember if it has direct feed 12v+ from the battery or switched relay 12v+, so test it with the ignition On to see if you get power to it.
I got my Aristo swap done a few months ago. Everything was good with the throttle (idle, revs etc.) until I reset the ECU (had to swap out the battery). This was the first time the ECU has been reset since the swap. This morning on my way to get tuned, I started the car and the idle immediately jumps to 3000 RPM then slowly settles to about 1500rpm. My tuner only adjusted TPS since that was off and now it idles and acts like it should, except the throttle sticks at 2500 RPM or so (and bounces about 300rpm) while driving. It happens randomly. mainly while cruising. I noticed that the little idler adjuster screw was adjusted (I know this is a no no). Could this be causing my issues? This did not happen until the ECU was reset. Is there a way to go about fixing this?
Hi,
Have you tried resetting ECU again? Since the only change originally has been the battery I’d check that all the connections are tight. I’d also make sure that all the TPS and ETCSi connections are solid. One other thing that might be worth doing is removing the IC piping and cleaning the throttle body, ensure that the throttle can freely move with your hand on the throttle lever/linkage, then ensure you reset the ETCi system as outlined in this post. If the issues continue I’d check all the other voltages and resistance values.
Oh also one last thing – make sure all of your vacuum lines are in-tact and have no leaks, you can pinch a vacuum line to see if the idle adjusts when the car is idling.
Just today I was driving my 97 Aristo v300 2jzgte stock and decided to give it WOT on the highway when suddenly the car would cut out all power and then would proceed into limp mode with vsc light,cel,abs lights going off. When I came to a complete stop the car was Idling around 1900 rpms. Although when I shut the car off for 10 minutes itll drive perfectly fine until I get the rpms higher or step on the pedal more then 60%. Not really sure on what to check at this point. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Have you followed all of the troubleshooting steps listed? Were there any abnormal results in the voltage and resistance values? It could be a TPS issue if the problem is occurring after 60% throttle, try the steps listed and see what results you receive.
Hope you can shed some light on this issue. I have a JzS161 Aristo. Anytime I drive my car under WOT it cuts out and hesitates really bad. Almost like a boost leak would cause. There are however no boost leaks. If I give the car about 1/4 to almost 1/2 throttle it is perfectly fine. Just seems to get no real power. I know the turbos are fine As well. On e I turn my headlights on the TRC, ABS and VSC dash lights all come on. Does this seem like a ECM or ETCSi issue to you? This is also a 97/98 model.
Hi,
This could be a multitude of issues, I’d first start with the very basic tests of removing the battery negative cable for 5-10mins, then seeing if the dash lights clear. If they don’t then these warning lights could potentially be due to a alternator, battery, ABS sensor or other sensor/electronic issue with the car. If possible have the codes read by a Lexus dealer or alternatively check them yourself. Since the lights come on when you use your headlights it is seeming like a battery/alternator problem, ensuring you are getting 13v+ or above with the headlights and A/C on, test it first by allowing car to warm up/take for a drive and then at idle check battery voltage, then turn on headlights and check voltage, then turn on A/C and any accessories such as the stereo and demister. Also there is a chance that this is related to the ETCS-i system and the troubleshooting steps in this post should be followed to see if any help resolve the issue.
Hello sir, I have a Toyota aristo 2jz gte vvti I have a problem with my throttle. I have an afc neo installed and in the first gear It goes to 100 % but when It shived to the second the throttle open only 40 % and the same in the third gear What can I do to solve this problem. Once I had it 100 % by turning the tps but I have lost it again and can’t find it anymore. Please I need some help because it stressed me alotttt.
Hi,
Does the issue occur with the afc neo removed? Is the MAP sensor setting applied in the neo? If it was working fine before and no other neo settings or modifications have occurred then it could be the TPS sensor.
Hello, and thank you for this amazing writeup. I do have a question however as the picture for the wiring job you did is a bit hard to understand. From what I am understanding, since I started as an N/A Supra, I have to add the pin in the fusebox where the TRAC would normally be and then simply run that wire all the way to the ECU on the designated pin?
Hi Jef, All I did was run the TRAC fuse wire all the way to the ECU from memory. Although I didn’t finish with the TRAC installation as I had the advanced ABS and didn’t want to wire it up along with the TRAC switches. I was lucky enough to not encounter any issues with the TRAC, ABS or have any warning lights. My next post coming up with my conversion project is around the wiring involved and will go into further details, but one thing I didn’t look up further was the TRAC working with the stock setup – I couldn’t justify the time and effort vs not having it or using an alternative traction control system.
I agree, that is alot of effort just for that. I just want to make sure my ETCS-i is functioning correctly as I have been operating in limp mode since I completed the swap.
Hi Jef, Make sure the ETCSi fuse is 15amp – not 10amp like the non VVTi has, also ensure that it has a 12v source – this is usually the culprit of limp mode.
You can check the ETCSi Pin 1 for 12v when ignition is on – this 12v is shared with the other fuse box 12v circuit.
I did a swap from an N/A body so I don’t even have a wire running from that area. i will have to run a wire from the box to the ECU I am guessing?
I just did a NA to TT swap with the vvti 2jz-gte engine. car is a JDM NA 5 speed. We had a custom harness built by tweak’d performance. The engine will start with no hesitation or issue. Idle perfectly for 3-4 seconds, start to act like it is being fuel starved then die. I have temporarily hard wired the stock pump to bypass any fuel computer for testing and still the same issue, and I changed the map sensor. This is a JDM car so no MAF. This was all with the stock ETCS-i / DBW throttle body. I should note that we do not have a drive by wire throttle pedal installed in the car. I machined a non ETCS-i / DBW throttle body from a standard non vvti 2jz-gte and installed it. I want to delete the drive by wire. I also have not wired the ETCS-i system to 12+ volts in the fuse box due to my intentions to delete that whole system. The car should still idle without this, correct? Thanks for the help.
Hi,
If you are using a standard VVTi ECU then it’s going to expect the ETCS-i inputs otherwise it’s going to go into limp mode. Yes the drive by wire delete will allow the throttle to move freely, but the ECU will be expecting feedback/voltage input from the APPS sensor. You have 2 options – Use an aftermarket ECU or install the standard VVTi gear and setup the required 12v+ wiring. Also you will have idle issues as the VVTi plenum doesn’t have the non-vvti IAC setup.
Hello! I posted my question on here before but it must have gotten deleted. Anyways my 99 Aristo has been acting up. The car starts up fine and idles fine when in P. But once I shift into D or R it would idle rough, sputter, and the rpm would fluctuate. Acceleration is not smooth, it’s like waves. Sometimes when going uphill and I floor it, I would here like pops and it would feel like the engine runs better. When I’m at a stop after, the rough idle would be gone. My filter is about 1 month old and I have cleaned the MAF sensor with sensor cleaner. I’ve checked the hoses for obvious cracks and holes but not while it’s running to check for leaks. Can anybody give me an idea of what could be causing this?
Hi,
Sorry I’ve been away from the website for a while. This sounds like an EFI issue if it’s occurring under load and not in Park or Neutral. I would check your fuel system, starting with fuel filter, then check fuel pumps and injectors. Also check the fault codes if possible.
There is a potential for the ETCSi system to be causing problems too, you can check the reset procedure outlined here also the voltages and resistances.
Hi,
I am running out of time soon since I’m shipping my ’97 Supra VVT-i 2JZ-GTE Twin Turbo home to Canada from the UK next month and encountered the MIL light about 2-3 weeks ago, but never had a fault from 2 years owning it. I got flash-code# 19, which points to the general Toyota fault code for the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS). It was scary driving it in the English countryside roads since it went into limp mode around corners, sometimes with no area to pull over with the narrow roads. If I slowed down it would go into a fit of delayed pedal response to sporadic small burst of power to no power at all. The strange pedal feel is noticeable or if I went into the tiptronic 3rd gear mode that reved higher or booted it in drive trying to top 60-80mph it would cop out. I went to a UK local Toyota dealership and they didn’t want to fit any parts to it to be held accountable on a Japan Spec Import, let allown being reluctant to check the diagnostics if it wasn’t a round or rectangular outlit, which I think both exist since a round one is under the steering wheel. I noticed the resistance readings were below average on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), but fine on the APPS… so I decided to replace the TPS only, but code 19 still appears after an attempt to drive it, MIL light and same symptoms. I checked the pedals, notice some slack in the analogue throttle cable and tried disconnecting the battery and unplugging the wires to the APPS to get the code again. Should I narrow my findings to replace the APPS or is it something internal in the throttle body? What voltage should the APPS be set at on the GTE? and the 4 wires on the plug to the APPS: Ground (E2) & 5Volt (VC), not sure of the other 2? Thanks for the tips and printed pages of notes off to have on hand and hope to get the car running to catch my vessel in time.
Cheers 🙂
Hey Guys,
It was totally the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, once fitted by some technicians and a bit of tweaking to reduce the extra slack in the throttle cable she began to run fine with now MIL light appearing. The part number is 22060-46020, which was fairly dear since I ordered direct through Toyota to obtain a brand new OEM grade part with rush delivery, but its worth it in some cases. In all honesty, I may have not needed to replace the Throttle Position Sensor, but the fact that they can crap themselves after a given point in time I guess it was also worth replacing to error on caution. The Supra RZ is all good to go to Canada.
Cheers to the great Australian(s) for creating this website.
Sorry that I missed your comment mate – I’m glad you got it sorted in the end, having all new gear means you won’t have to worry about it for another 10-15yrs 🙂
Hi Dex,
Sorry I’ve had a break from the website, did you get the issue sorted?
Most people who write to me about their ETCSi issues usually let me know that the APPS has gone bad 9/10 times. I could imagine how sketchy driving around tight English roads would be with limp mode! I would first try resetting the ETCSi as outlined in the article, to see if there is any issues. At idle the APPS voltage should be between 0.3-0.9 volts, also the VC connector from the ECU should be 5 volts. Also ensure the resistance between terminals VC and E2 – 1.2 – 3.2 kW.
Great write up! I have researched, and now experiencing the common problem of failure of the APP sensor on my JDM 2jz gte vvti. The problem is I cant find the sensor (22060-46020) new in the US. I am however getting the APP for the 2jzge vvti (22060-46010) but I dont know if it is the same electrically and can be interchanged. Can you advise?
Hi,
I’m not too sure if they are interchangeable or not, they seem very similar but I have not came across the 2JZGE version or seen it tested. They are fairly expensive also to replace.
It might be easier to track down a 2nd hand throttle with the sensor, or see if someone is willing to let you test. The other option is to order via Toyota Australia potentially?
All I did was remove, clean and resecure the positive cable between the alt and fuse block. My ecu wiring hasn’t changed. I’ve daily drivin the motor for about 4 months now and ran it in about 3 drift events. I’m wondering if the drive home @ 7.5v cause an intermittent issue with the etcs-i system. All the resistance tests check good. It runs perfect for about 4 mins and then right back to limp mode.
Seems very strange! I’d check if you are getting 12v to the ETCS-i before the issue and after the issue. Usually problems like this are electronic components that have failed or wiring issues.
Not sure if you can borrow or find another throttle to try, or maybe try swapping the sensors out to narrow down the issue.
Just an update I swapped out Ecu from the 1jz to the stock is Ecu throttle issue has gone away I’m suspecting an issue with the 1jz ecu. However now my air fuel mixture is way rich. Thanks for the help though.
In need of help I have a successfully swapped 1jzvvti etcs-i into my is300 for about 4 months now. This past week I had a charging issue which I resolved.(bad connection between alternator and fuse block) As soon as it was fixed my etcs-I will go into limp mode after less than a minute of driving. I shit it down. And start it back up after a couple seconds and it drives fine for about a minute and happens again. It’s a never ending cycle. Any ideas?
I’m unsure of the fuse rating on the 1JZ vvti but is it correct amperage, also did you wire the 12v+ to the ECU correctly? Since it’s been working (even with with charging issues) then it’s most likely something to do with the fix to the charging system.
Is there a way to make the cable portion of the ECTSi to where it controls the TB 100% instead of 25%-35% max (limp mode) with out also doing some sort of damage to the engine also..
I think since i upgraded the exhaust it might be boost creaping so at WOT its holding back the second throttle or maybe the second turbo I havent done the turbo parallel mod.
I heard that if you disconect the map sensor it will run normal and fine it uses the map sensor as a boost/fuel cut and the OEM maf adjust fuel anyways this will get rid of boost fuel cut issues and afrs will be normal with no engine damage making it a safe mod i heard the MAF can handle up to 18psi of boost with metered air : )
Current to the throttle control motor are magnetic clutch are cut out once there is a problem, this makes the spring close the throttle to the default position – so the spring may be able to be modified to allow this, although I wouldn’t recommend it, I’d rather fix the problem then work around it, there is always a chance you could cause damage to the engine.
Yes with a larger exhaust and increased boost pressure you will be hitting fuel cut, disconnecting the MAP can get around the issue but I would not recommend it. For the USDM model only it is probably not as bad as the JDM version, as the JDM version only uses a MAP sensor in 93-97.9 models. The USDM MAP only controls turbo pressure and a few other functions. The OEM MAF on USDM 2jz does control fuel/ignition and engine load. I have seen figures of 16-18psi with MAF and stock ECU, I wouldn’t go above 17-18psi without piggy back or full ECU. It’s been a while since I dealt with TT”s but all I did was use a Greddy BCC with my 2JZ (JDM).
Thanks a lot for this information. Quick one. I have a JDM Aristo 2JZGTE stock. However recently when I start the engine, it throws a CEL and revs high, about 2000 rpm. Sometimes it starts and revs normal however after idling for say 2 mins it jumps to 2000 rpm and the CEL shows which from your description is the fail safe mode
This happened after attempting to clean the TB. It happened for two days and it went away. Additionally I adjusted the TPS but wondering how to get it back to stock position. Happened again when i disconnected the battery for an extended period, perhaps the ECM was reset. What could be wrong. Is it possible the TB is dying or dead? Where should I check? Thanks
Mustafa
Looks like it was a Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. Popped on a new one and problem hasnt returned. Thanks
Glad you got it sorted, you had troubleshooted most of the issues from looking at your last post, I would have recommended the APPS or TPS as the culprit!
hello i dont know if anyone can help me but i have a 2jzgte vvti swap 6 speed in my car and it was running good for about 4 months i had a custom housong for my maf so idled up and down for a couple secs when i would turn it on. last week i was boosting and one of my intercooler couplets came off and i think thats why my car shut down. i bought the right maf housing and connected the intercooler couplet, but it turns on for a sec and dies right away. it will only stay on with maf disconnected and engine sounds fine.
That seems strange, are you sure that the MAF is not damaged or not working correctly? It seems that it’s most likely the cause. It could also be the wiring loom for the MAF. I’d suggest cleaning the MAF with a MAF safe cleaner, testing the wiring loom and also doing a test with the multimeter on the MAF. Now depending which model of MAF it is (VVTi or non VVTi) you can check the SFI section of the TRSM for MAF resistance values. Otherwise if you can try another MAF if possible.
Yea its wierd i berly bought my maf about 2 months ago NEW so i wouldnt understand why it could be bad. I can turn the car with maf disconnected and sounds fine, but as soon as i connect maf it turns off…… If so how do i test if my maf sensor is working? and my wiring should be right harness was done by tweakt performance.
It could be as simple as a vacuum/boost leak, double check all of your FMIC hoses (you said one popped the other week), all vacuum hoses to manifold and turbo/VSV’s. If you weren’t having issues before this then it’s more than likely a leak. Is the car boosting correctly without the MAF? Do you have a boost gauge? Is there a vacuum reading at idle, if so what is it?
It would seem strange for a new MAF to go. Did you try the old MAF to see if you have the same issue? It would be nice if you could get your hands on a known good one to rule it out, if it is a bad MAF then maybe the new one will be covered by warranty also. You can test the MAF it’s in the SFI section of the service manual.
The 2JZGE VVTi (Out of IS300) test can be found on page SF30 – http://www.2jzgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/SFI-SF.pdf
The 2JZGTE (non-vvti out of Supra) test can be found on page SF36 – http://www.2jzgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/Supra/Workshop_Manual/SFI.pdf
Both operation tests should both work though, if it’s out of a 2JZGTE VVTi then I’m not 100% sure on resistance values, but you can perform the same tests, record the values and see if they are similar to the other MAF’s as a reference. I think I ended up tracking down the correct resistance values in the past but can’t currently find them.
Also I’m sure the wiring harness should be ok, but always double check to rule out issues. I still think your issue is FMIC pipe leak or similar. The car will use default setting without sensor plugged in, that’s why it runs.
Hi mate, i’m trying to diagnose a terrible fuel economy problem (18-20L/100km) and rough cold idle on my 98vvti TT and you seem to have the most information and the best understanding of it all, so any assistance would be much appreciated.
I hooked up my scan tool and did a run today and found that my throttle position % never went above 54% even though i did a few WOT runs along the highway. my long term fuel trim is -7%.
do you have any suggestions?
cheers , Michael.
Hey Michael,
Very sorry for the late reply, did you have any luck sorting it out?
Hard to tell from your scan tool diagnostics if that is a genuine TPS issue or not, but good place to start. It sounds most likely an issue somewhere with the ETCSi system, I have plenty of troubleshooting you can try here first, it goes into some tests and diagnostics you can try – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/
Also it could be related to your VVTi solenoid. Try unpluggging the solenoid plug (on the intake side of the head) and see if you experience the same issues. I’m doubtful it’s this as your symptoms relate more to the ETCSi system.
I actually had a success in fixing the cold start. Dirty throttle body. However my fuel economy has not improved. I think it is probably unrelated (boost leak or the like). Thanks very much!
Glad you got it sorted mate. Regarding your fuel economy I’d check the EFI system, things like fuel filter, injectors, and also your o2 sensor. Also a boost leak or similar could have similar issues. All the best 🙂
Great write up, thanks. Do you know if the ECU uses the TPS, APS, MAF or all of the above to give the fuel mix required?
i am looking at a mechanism to remove the DBW and connect the cable direct, but i am concerned the slight lag between the APS and the TPS may give a small opportunity to run lean or rich.
Hi Matt,
Sorry for the late reply.
I’m not 100% sure but I’d assume it uses the MAF (+MAP) and TPS mainly.
There is probably more of an explination of the ETCS-i system here – http://media.toyota.ca/pr/tci/en/document/Tab_9_-_Electronic_Throttle_Control_System_-_How_it_works.pdf
But the fuel mix would be modified by all sensors relating to fuel such as TPS, MAF and MAP. I doubt that removing the DBW would change the fuel mixture much but rather the other sensors such as traction control, idle and cruise control. I’m sure it may give a slightly less accurate measurement but I can”t be 100% sure as I have tired.
Thanks for the reply and link, that looks quite interesting! I will have to study it later on and see.
Cheers!
HI thanks for sharing the ETCS-i experience. I’ve got 2 start up problems with my Aristo Jzs161.
1. My engine RPM goes high all the way up to red line if i don’t turn the KEY to start in ONE action. For example, if i turn the key to “on” position and hold a sec then start up. The rpm would just go straight high. However, if i start up in once, the engine will just start and idle normally at 800rpm.
2. Its hard to start up the engine if i dont step on the Accelerator Pedal a bit.
I am a beginner to this 2jz-gte. Please kindly instruct me ways to solve these problems. many tks.
MAX
Hi Max,
That very much sounds like an ECTS-i issue, rather an idle control problem. I’d recommend testing your Throttle Position Sensor and Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor voltages to see if the sensors are within spec, seems one of them isn’t quite right.
Hey, big thanks for all the usefull info you’ve put up. Its def. been a great deal of help throughtout my 2jzgte vvti travels!
Quick ques. and hoping you can shine some light on my situation…
I just completed a 2jzgte vvti swap into a nissan s14 chassis. Completed all of the wiring, plumbing and so-forth , the engine started right up and idled nicely but i am not getting any throttle response whatsoever from the etcs-i system. I have checked resistance on all the sensors on the tb and they all checked out ok. I also made sure the ecu is recieving its +/- source for the etcs-i system and it is. The swap is out of an auto Aristo and still running the auto ecu if that makes a difference. Is there any calibration involved seeing that it obviously hasn’t ran in years? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Ted
Hey Ted,
Very sorry for the very late reply, I’ve been away and not on my website.
Hopefully you’ve sorted your issues by now but I’d recommend checking the mechanical operation of the throttle, even the bolts on the throttle body to ensure there is no strange movement or issues in that area. Check that the return spring closes the throttle correctly to idle position. Also ensure you have sufficient EFI connectivity and fuel pressure, seems fuel related to me. I’d doubt any calibration issues initially, should still respond reasonably well.
Glad the info has been of help to you so far 🙂
hi, thank you for putting all the information up about the etcs-i. I just have one question that im hoping you can answer. every reading you show in your etcs-i write up checks out perfect with my unit and sensors. I had to replace the tps as this was faulty. having done that I have just positioned it in the middle for now and that fault code has disappeared now, however I still get the accelerator pedal position sensor fault showing. could this be because the tps hasn’t been set up properly? please get back to me as you are a lifesaver.
regards, lee grainger
Hey Lee,
You may need to adjust TPS voltage/settings, I did find this video (not mine) that may assist you in resolving the issue – http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=DEw1MZreRHM
This is most likely the issue, I have heard that when installing you should make sure it’s as far clockwise as possible when starting, then move the TPS counter-clockwise until you feel it hit the throttle plate, this is at least a good place to start as I don’t think they should have to be too finely adjusted.
Also something simple but can cause issues/codes is a vacuum leak, make sure you check all the vacuum hose 🙂