Summary                                         Part 1
Removal of stock parts          Part 2     – You are here
Wiring                                               Part 3
Aristo engine differences     Part 4
Installation                                    Part 5
Final thoughts                             Part 6

So you’ve made it to this stage then you are ready to start pulling out the 2JZGE, make sure you have ample space in yours or someone else’s garage or workshop to work.

Ensure you reference the workshop manual for the process of removing all of the parts, and that you label them and keep all bolts/nuts together.

Begin by draining and safely deposing of all of the fluids from the engine such as;

• Oil – Plug on bottom of sump and oil filter under intake plenum
• Coolant – Plug under radiator, engine plug also at rear behind exhaust manifold
• Power steering fluid – Remove any hose under reservoir
• Transmission fluid *Optional if V160/V161 – Although recommended changing while you’re there

Remove all of the following;

• Hood/bonnet
• Battery, tray and clamps (Remove the battery ground leads always before working on any car)
• Any wiring sensors/plugs you can reach
• Igniter / Fuse box connectors
• Intake system
• Top and bottom radiator hose and overflow hose
• Radiator, clutch fan and Fan shroud
• Drive belt (Accessories belt)
• Exhaust heat shield
• Exhaust system
• Front bumper assembly/plastic under-guards
• Heater hoses
• Charcoal canister and hoses
• Throttle Cable
• Power steering lines (On reservoir and steering rack)
• Fuel line from fuel filter union bolt
• Return fuel line
• Clutch pressure line to slave cylinder
• Ground wires that go to transmission/fuel filter
• Grounds wire at the back of engine (To firewall)
• A/C compressor lines *Optional – I didn’t remove these, I was tight on budget at the time, but if you do remove the lines please remove as per workshop manual. I would do this as it makes it easier than keeping hoses connected and working around the compressor!
• Shifter assembly
• ECU wiring/loom pulled out through firewall
• Drive Shaft
• Rear transmission support
• Engine mount bolts

Intake removed

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Summary                                         Part 1    – You are here
Removal of stock parts          Part 2
Wiring                                               Part 3
Aristo engine differences     Part 4
Installation                                    Part 5
Final thoughts                             Part 6

This article is a guide and summary of the work involved in swapping from a JDM 1998 Toyota Supra SZR to an RZ. Basically all steps involved in removing the 2JZGE and putting in a 2JZGTE VVTi, otherwise known as the NA-TT swap. For those that aren’t aware, the SZR came with the A02B torsen diff, 6 speed V161 and carbon fibre steering wheel, with my car it had only done around 50,000km (31,000miles) and was in great condition. At the time I did not have the budget for an RZ supra at my age and income, I came across a cheap 2JZGTE VVTi engine and thought this was the best opportunity to move to a TT, so I gave the conversion a go way back in 2006!

Before;

After;

YouTube Video of conversion in pictures;

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