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Toyota Supra NA-TT Conversion – Final Thoughts – Part 6

Summary                                        Part 1  

Removal of stock parts         Part 2  

Wiring                                              Part 3  

Aristo engine differences    Part 4    

Installation                                    Part 5   

Final thoughts                             Part 6   – You are here

Well I figured this final thoughts page can be used for me to come back to and update if required and also be used to add any further information that may fall outside the scope of the conversion directly.

Dyno figures

I went from a 2JZGE NA with K&N panel filter with 2.5 inch custom exhaust at 135rwkw (181rwhp) to a 2JZGTE TT with HKS intake, 2.75” exhaust/3” dump pipe/stock mid pipe and cat, 3 row FMIC and electronic boost controller at 16psi for 261rwkw (350rwhp) which is almost double the power and relatively low boost, this was daily driven without any issues.

NA dyno135.3kwopt

TT dyno260.8kw

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Toyota Supra NA-TT Conversion – Installation – Part 5

Summary                                        Part 1  

Removal of stock parts         Part 2  

Wiring                                              Part 3  

Aristo engine differences    Part 4    

Installation                                    Part 5   – You are here

Final thoughts                             Part 6

So at this stage most of the tedious hard work of any custom wiring is complete and the process of upgrading engine and drive line components should be done at this stage before the engine is installed, which really is just about the last part.

There is so much work that does go into this stage though, especially with the Aristo engine differences, so I’ve added that to Part 4 here – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2016/02/toyota-supra-na-tt-conversion-aristo-engine-differences-part-4. This is where you can find out more info about swapping over parts from the Aristo engine, I suggest that you read this as it also shows some other components that you need to install such as sensors and engine mounts.

I was a little light on with pictures near the end the end of this project as the finishing touches went on as it became very exciting and I just wanted to drive the bloody thing! So apologies in advance for some lack of information and pictures at this stage, but I think those parts are fairly self-explanatory.

Below are some of the new parts I’ve listed as recommend and optional. I do recommend changing as much as you can while the engine is out, this list was the basic one I was willing to change on my 70,000km (43,00mile) Aristo engine and within the budget I had at the time. If I had a larger budget then I would’ve done as much as possible at this stage – please, please, please do the timing belt as a bare minimum!

Recommended parts;

• Timing belt (I prefer aftermarket Kevlar items)
• Cam, crank, rear main seals
• OEM Fuel filter
• OEM Water pump, gasket and seals
• OEM/TRD Thermostat and seals
• OEM TT P/S reservoir
• Supra VVTi throttle cable
• SMIC or FMIC and piping
• Clutch and flywheel
• TT Exhaust system
• TT Radiator and hoses
• TT Air intake

Optional;

• Timing belt tensioner
• Timing belt tensioner pulley/bearing (aftermarket billet bracket if possible)
• Harmonic balancer
• Aftermarket cam gears
• Engine gasket kit
• Aftermarket clutch and flywheel
• TT clutch master cylinder heat shroud
• TT electric radiator fan
• Aftermarket FMIC and piping
• Aftermarket radiator
• Aftermarket air intake
• Any engine, turbo or intake plenum upgrades!

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Toyota Supra NA-TT Conversion – Aristo Engine Differences – Part 4

Summary                                        Part 1  

Removal of stock parts         Part 2  

Wiring                                              Part 3  

Aristo engine differences    Part 4    – You are here

Installation                                    Part 5

Final thoughts                             Part 6

Something I kept out of the installation stage is the specifics around the aristo engine differences as I believed this needed a section on its own. Most people who do the 2JZGTE conversion will use the Aristo engine as they are easier to come across than the supra 2JZGTE in most instances.

So if you have a supra 2JZGTE then you can skip this step, but some of the information below may be of help for maintenance in the future.

The VVTi 2jzgte engine also came in the 1998-2005 Aristo V300 (JZS161). I have previously listed a general rundown of the differences on the VVTi Information page on 2JZGarage here – http://www.2jzgarage.com/2012/02/2jzgte-vvti-information/ but I’ve provided a little more information and pictures as I found it’s more relevant to the swap if you are using this engine.

If you are swapping this engine into a supra then you will need to do the following:

  • The Aristo power steering pump has a solenoid valve for progressive power steering which the supra doesn’t, mainly this effects the power steering lines as the bolt configuration is different, you will need a supra one and to remove the Aristo one, also a new P/S outlet will be required and along with different vacuum hose layout for idle up function.
  • The water pump is the same on the VVTi and is not hydro – it will not need to be changed
  • The Aristo has a front mounted sump, you will need to change to a Supra mid-mounted sump layout.
  • The engine loom will need to be modified to suit the minor differences and connectors or swapped for a Supra unit
  • The engine mounts and brackets will need to be swapped for supra items
  • A brake booster bung (Goes to top of intake manifold) will need to be purchased that suits the supra manifold
  • The o2 sensor loom plug will need to be swapped over to a supra one or lengthened
  • A Supra water temp sender (Not sensor) will need to be purchased and installed, this sends the temperate reading to the gauge cluster
  • An oil level sensor plug may need to be purchased depending on the year model
  • Supra specific heater hoses from engine will need to purchase or made to suit as the Aristo ones are routed differently
  • The oil dip stick bracket is different and will need to be modified or replaced with a Supra one
  • Oil return lines from turbos are different and supra ones required, this is due to the different sump layout, the non-turbo sump can be used but will require modification for the oil return
  • The engine dampener that stops the serpentine belt being flicked off and/or loose tension will need to be swapped to a manual one if you are using the manual gearbox

Power steering pump and diagrams
Supra Idle up vacuum routing
“IdleUp"

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Toyota Supra NA-TT Conversion – Wiring – Part 3

Summary                                          Part 1
Removal of stock parts           Part 2
Wiring                                                Part 3   – You are here
Aristo engine differences      Part 4 
Installation                                     Part 5
Final thoughts                              Part 6

Wiring is probably the most daunting and cumbersome for most completing this conversion. If you do not know much about wiring or aren’t confident reading wiring diagrams then please have an auto electrician or workshop do the work for you.

At the time I spent a while reading the diagrams, looking at the differences and it probably took me a few weeks of studying and identifying what I needed to do, there could be small differences between year models and SZ/SZR so the information below is all on my experiences.

I’m going to give you the best advice here – Track down the end state engine loom and stock ECU, and this will save you countless hours of troubleshooting and won’t require too much custom wiring. If you track down a front body loom for the fuse box area then it should be all plug and play. There are so many variables to this step and this is the process I followed which worked for me, I was lucky enough to find a VVTi engine loom and ECU out of a supra.

The last step in all of the stock removal should have the engine loom out of the way and all of the connectors unplugged, ensure the GE engine is out and that the GTE is ready to have the loom installed (If required).

Also last thing – Please check the first page of this guide for links to all the wiring manuals, pinouts and parts required.

Below is a general guide to the custom wiring you will need to do

  • Fuse box EFI1 / EFI2 wiring
  • Fuse box ECTS-i wiring
  • Potentially o2 sensor and water temp sender on engine wiring loom (On aristo engines)
  • If you want the electric fan for the A/C you will need a 30amp FAN fuse with a relay/wiring – I decided against this
  • If you want advanced ABS and traction control buttons you will need that wiring and ECU – I also decided against this

The GE and GTE share the same fuel pump ECU and fuel pump, the only difference is that the GE only has 1 EFI relay and the GTE has 2 EFI relays.EFI2pic

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